NEW YORK – A New York Times Magazine food writer probed
whether the addition of healthful foods to fast food menus has come at the
price of flavor.
“[O]our relationship with fast food has changed,” Mark
Bittman wrote. “We’ve gone from the whistle-blowing stage to the
higher-expectations stage, and some of those expectations are being met. …There
are dozens of plant-based alternatives to meat, with more on the way;
increasingly, they’re pretty good.”
As such, Bittman maintains a fast-food chain that’s
healthful and vegetarian-friendly is possible and would satisfy a growing
demand from consumers.
“It is significant, and I do believe it is coming from
consumer desire to have choices and more balance,” says Andy Barish, a
restaurant analyst at Jefferies LLC, the investment bank. “And it’s not just
the coasts anymore.”
Over the past few years, the fast-food industry has begun
responding to those evolving preferences, investing billions of dollars in more
healthful fast-food options.
He touches on several other growing chains that improve on
the traditional fast-food concept, each that offers improved food quality
though often at the expense of cost (some approach $15 or even $20 a meal),
speed or taste.
“Good Fast Food doesn’t need to be vegan or even vegetarian,”
Bittman concludes, though “it just ought to be real, whole food.” To succeed,
he offers a few key points to consider:
“My advice would be to skip the service and the wine, make a
limited menu with big flavors and a few treats and keep it as cheap as you can.
Of course, there are huge players who could do this almost instantaneously. But
the best thing they seem able to come up with is the McWrap or the fresco menu.
“In the meantime, I’m throwing out a few recipes to the
entire fast-food world to help build a case that it’s possible use real
ingredients to create relatively inexpensive, low-calorie, meat-free, protein-dense,
inexpensive fast food.”